Three Tiers

Get your Autumn wardrobe up-to-date with this beautiful three tier gypsy skirt.
Simple to make in cord, cotton jersey, crinkle cotton or light weight denim fabrics using any straight skirt pattern and a little bit of arithmetic!

Before you start take a look at the diagram to the right and decide on the finished length for the skirt and make some simple calculations: Divide the finished length by three and add 3cm (approx 1inch). The total will give you the measure-ments for the top skirt and the two tiers below including seam allowances.
For example:
Finished length = 60cm (24inch)
60cm divided by 3 = 20cm (8inch)
20cm plus 3cm = 23cm (9inch) for each tier
Firstly, cut out the pattern for the top tier. Using the measurements as an example, the first tier should be cut to a length of 23cm (9inch) from the waist down (approximately hip level). (See photograph 1).

Next, cut out the second tier by measuring the circumference of the first tier and multiplying by one-and-a-half.

For example: If the top skirt measures 90cm (35inch) around the bottom edge, the next tier should be 90cm multiplied by one-and-a-half, giving 135cm (52inch). Add 3cm (1inch) for seam allowances to give a
length of 138cm (53inch) by 23cm (9inch) deep.

For the lower tier repeat the process by multiplying by 1 to get the required width. An extra 1.5cm (5/8inch) should be added to the depth of this layer to accommodate the hem.

Note: the fabric width will not be wide enough to cut this in one piece. Cut two equal sized lengths for this lower layer.

1 – Cut the straight skirt paper
pattern to the desired length.		 2 – Use foot G for overcasting
and a suitable overcasting
stitch. See machine manual
for details.
3 – Sew two rows of the
longest straight stitch. Pull up
the gathers to the correct
length and arrange evenly.
Machine in the middle of the
two rows of gathers.		 4 – Press the hem up twice
and machine close to the fold.
 
5 - Fasten with a trouser
hook and bar and finish with
a button on the outside
for decoration.		  

How to put a skirt together

 Having cut out the pieces and transferred the pattern markings of the top skirt onto each of them, follow the pattern instructions to sew the darts and put in the zip
Sew the rectangle of fabric which will become the second tier, to form a circle. Finish the raw edges of the seam using the overcasting foot and a suitable stitch. (See photograph 2)
Using two rows of gathering stitches (longest length) along the top edge pull up the gathers to match the length of the top skirt. (See photograph 3). With right sides together, pin the gathered piece to the top skirt and arrange the gathers evenly. Machine the two layers together.
Sew the fabric pieces together to form the final tier of the skirt and finish the raw edges of the seams.
Gather the bottom tier and pull up to match the length of the middle tier of the skirt. Arrange the gathers evenly and sew together with right sides facing.
With the three tiers now completed the raw edges should be finished off to neaten the inside.
Fold up a double 1.5cm (5/8inch) hem and machine in place. (See photograph 4)
Make the narrow bound waistband by cutting a length of fabric the same measurement as the waist plus 5cm (2inch) by 6cm (2inch) wide. Repeat in lightweight iron-on interfacing and fuse to the wrong side of the waistband. Neaten one long edge with an overcastting stitch.
Pin around the waist with right sides together and matching up the raw edges. The waistband should extend by 1.5cm (5/8inch) on one end and 3.5cm (1inch) on the other end. Machine this in place.
Trim away any bulk from the inside but do not reduce the seam allowance from 1.5cm (5/8”). Pull up and over the raw edges and down to the inside of the skirt. From the right side, pin ‘in the ditch’ catching all layers in place - machine along this line. Neaten the ends of the waistband and sew a hook and eye in
place as a fastening.
Sew a decorative button in place at the back of the waistband to finish. (See photograph 5)
Sew on the lace by hand.